Best Belay Devices of 2024
Belay devices for climbing for beginners to gym climbing to multi-pitch alpine climbing trips
Home > Gear Reviews
May 28th, 2024
The belay device’s job is to keep the climber and the rappeler safe by minimizing fall potential. But they can be really quirky; some devices are super intuitive, making it really easy to understand where to thread the rope and how to operate all of the parts. Other devices require finesse to operate smoothly and efficiently. Fortunately, there are lots of great belay devices, making it easy to find an option that fits your budget and basic climbing needs.
Most devices have a favored environment and type of climbing. Knowing the strengths and weaknesses of each belay device better prepares the climber to stay safely equipped while adventuring.
Over the past decade, we’ve tested about a dozen different belay devices, and spent countless hours mastering each one. While we really love multi-pitch climbing, we took these devices out into every environment we could imagine, including the gym, single-pitch sport routes, alpine routes, and multi-pitch climbs. Then we rated each device based on factors like ease of use, versatility, safety, and longevity. Here’s what we found.
Disclaimer: Climbing is an inherently dangerous risk. Even more important than the gear, it’s crucial to have training and education. If you’re new to the climbing, it is essential to look into courses to get you familiar with the gear and safety before you go. Do not attempt to use any of the devices in this story without training from a climbing professional.
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Belay devices comparison table
BELAY DEVICE | TREELINE AWARD | TYPE | ROPE DIAMTER* | WEIGHT | MSRP** |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Petzl Gri Gri + | Best overall Read why |
Assisted Braking Device | 8.5 to 11 mm | 200g / 7.05 oz | 140 |
Mammut Nordwand | Best affordable Read why |
Tubular Belay Device | 7.5 to 10.5 mm | 80 g / 2.82 oz | 30 |
Petzl Gri Gri | Best for beginners Read why |
Assisted Braking Device | 8.5 to 11 mm | 175 g / 6.17 oz | 110 |
Black Diamond ATC Pilot | Best for gym climbing Read why |
Assisted Braking Device | 8.7 to 10.5 mm | 92 g / 3.25 oz | 50 |
Black Diamond ATC Guide | Best for multi-pitch Read why |
Tubular Belay Device | 8.1 to 11mm | 80g / 2.82 oz | 35 |
The winners
Best overall belay device: Petzl GriGri +
Type / Style: Assisted Braking Device
Recommended rope diameter: 8.5 to 11 mm
Weight: 200g / 7.05 oz
What we liked: 3 to 1 mechanical advantage
What we didn’t like: Switching between lead and alpine modes
The Petzl GriGri+ manages to take all of the features we love about the standard GriGri and weave them into a workhorse of a device. We took this belay device top roping in the gym, on multi-pitch routes in Rocky Mountain National Park, and to a slabby granite crag with lots of “run out” near home where we practiced hauling for Yosemite.
Features
Like its predecessor, the GriGri+ prevents rope slippage, allows you to haul, and belay with an assist without batting an eye. The GriGri+ also comes with an anti-panic feature to support new belayers that have a tendency to open the handle all of the way, leading to an uncontrolled descent, leaving you looking like a rookie on the wall. The applications of the GriGri+ make it a good option for everyone from new climbers to advanced big waller climbers, which is why it’s one of the most popular options in the field.
Compare prices of the Petzl GriGri +
Like the standard GriGri, the GriGri+ is a single rope, assisted braking device that helps the belayer to catch their climber. Unlike the ATC, which mainly uses friction to make the catch, the GriGri and GriGri+ contain a cam that stops the rope. The first GriGri was made in 1991. The GriGri 2 came out 20 years later.
The newest iteration, the GriGri+, was released in 2017, with notable improvements like a 3- to- 1 mechanical advantage (compared to a 2- to- 1) that’s great for hauling or belaying a climber that’s heavier than you. This essentially means that instead of taking on the majority of the climber’s weight yourself, the belay device takes a significant portion off of the belayer, which makes it irreplaceable on projects where the climber does a lot of hanging, or in situation where there’s a big weight difference between the belayer and the climber.
Sustainability
As a brand, Petzl is also doing its part to reduce waste in support of the environment. In 2021, the brand joined forces with Valoralp to identify and implement reuse strategies. Additionally, the company as a whole is working to completely eliminate single-use materials in packaging, as well as reuse 50% of cardboard and palates and recover 80% of their waste by 2025. And you know how we feel about a company that prioritizes sustainability.
Usability
One thing we loved about the GriGri+ is that it efficiently handles varying rope diameters, making it super easy to switch from an indoor to an alpine environment while using the same device. Compared to the last iteration of the GriGri, it manages to catch the rope quicker, while offering a smooth release.
Although we love the GriGri+, it does have a few shortcomings. Both the GriGri and the GriGri+ are right-handed devices, which means that 10% of the population either has to adapt to the device or choose a different one. It’s also fairly easy to thread the rope backwards, which prevents the cam from engaging. If you don’t check it by yanking on the climber’s rope before beginning a route, it essentially turns into an ATC (a popular tube-style passive, belay device that Black Diamond dubbed the “Air Traffic Controller”), which can be really scary if you’re not expecting it.
It’s also about double the cost and the weight of competitive devices, at $140 and 7.1 oz. The GriGri+ comes with a toggle button that allows the belayer to switch from lead to top rope, adjusting the sensitivity of the cam. However, locking it in place requires a small tool, and unless you usually have a nut tool on your harness, it can be tough to make the switch.
Conclusion
The reality is that even with drawbacks, like the cost and weight of the GriGri+, the versatility of this device is unmatched.
In cases where you’re learning how to haul hundreds of pounds up a wall, the GriGri+ is one of the best devices to support the endeavor since it offloads a ton of weight on the device, as well as prevents slippage while you’re dragging a bag up the wall (we usually use the GriGri+ and a Petzl Microtaxion Pulley to body haul).
When it comes to investing in a belay device that fits seamlessly into multiple climbing environments, the GriGri+ is our go-to belay device. It’s one of the safest assisted-braking devices available, it’s redundant, and it’s great for beginners and big wall climbers alike. While some of the new features require a learning curve to master, each one was intentionally created to develop a safer device.
Best affordable belay device: Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay
Type / Style: Tubular Belay Device
Recommended rope diameter: 7.5 to 10.5 mm
Weight: 80 g / 2.82 oz
What we liked: Takes uber thin rope diameters
What we didn’t like: Not as smooth as the ATC and ATC guide
A $34.95 price tag for a belay device is pretty tough to beat. The Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay Device and the Black Diamond ATC Guide manage to match this price, while delivering all of the necessary components a belayer needs. With similar designs, the Nordwand and the ATC Guide are nearly an equal match. But we choose the Nordwand as the best budget belay device because it is extra durable, and built to last forever.
After using the Nordwand mixed climbing environments with several rock scrambles and extra long rappels, the Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay showed little wear. At a weight of 2.82 oz,the same weight as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, this device is less than half the weight of a GriGri+, which makes it competitive on its own. When paired with its smooth flow, it's easy to love these devices for its efficiency. It’s extremely simple, it disperses heat well (which contributes to that longevity we were talking about), and its tougher than many competitive tubular devices.
Compare prices of the Mammut Nordwand Alpine Belay
This device’s main drawback is that paying out rope isn’t very smooth, which can lead to a jerky descent.
Many climbers carry both an assisted braking device, like the GriGri or the BD Pilot, and a simple belay device, like the ATC Guide or the Nordwand Alpine. This strategy gives you access to more problem solving options while you’re climbing.
For example the Nordwand Alpine would allow you to run a double-rope rappel while a GriGri would not. While the Nordwand Alpine device doesn’t come with many bells and whistles, it’s the kind of device that should live on your harness because of its reliability and affordability.
Additionally, Mammut works to create sustainable protocols by providing responsibility reports that, “cover the social and environmental impacts of [the] business and respond to the targets we’ve outlined in our strategy.” Creating transparency is a great way to stay accountable to the environment. This belay device is best for new climbers who are on a budget but prefer to invest in versatile products.
Best belay device for beginners: Petzl GriGri
Type / Style: Assisted Braking Device
Recommended rope diameter: 8.5 to 11 mm (optimized for 8.9 to 10.5mm)
Weight: 175 g / 6.17 oz
What we liked: It’s an extremely safe belay device
What we didn’t like: Easy to thread the wrong way, optimized for right-handed use
While the Petzl GriGri can be intimidating due to its price, it adds a layer of safety to most belay situations by providing an assisted braking function. We tested the standard Petzl GriGri all around the globe, taking it to places like North Carolina, California, Colorado, Utah, and Croatia, as well as a variety of gyms, and it performed perfectly.
Compare prices of the Petzl GriGri
Accepting rope diameters that range from 8.5 to 11 mm, the Petzl GriGri is optimized to newbie situations (most climbing gyms use ropes in the 9.5 to 9.7 mm range). Yet it takes small enough diameters that you could also drag it up an alpine route, if you so chose. It also comes with a 3-year guarantee, and it’s slightly cheaper (by $30) than the Petzl GriGri+.
The standard GriGri has many of the same drawbacks of the GriGri+, like having to make sure not to thread the rope backwards and prioritizing right-handed use. It’s also bulky, costly, and less intuitive to use than an ATC.
However, climbing is a notoriously lethal sport, so any time you can reduce the risk of human error with gear, you should. The Petzl GriGri makes this possible due to its redundancy. Once you get the hang of the camming action (when the internal mechanical piece of the device clamps own on the rope), it’s just as easy to use as any other belay device, yet twice as safe. We also love that it can be used in really advanced situations to do things like haul gear and self-rescue. There’s a reason why this device has reigned as one of the top belay devices for decades.
Best belay device for gym climbing: Black Diamond Pilot
Type / Style: Assisted Braking Device
Recommended rope diameter: 8.7 to 10.5 mm
Weight: 92 g / 3.25 oz
What we liked: Intuitive design
What we didn’t like: Paying out rope, rope slippage
The Black Diamond Pilot functions like a standard tubular belay device except that it uses geometry to create an assisted braking function. When the device senses a lot of friction, it pinches the rope between the device and the carabiner, bringing the climber to a halt. Then, to get the rope moving again, you simply turn the device to release it. Most belay devices should operate fluidly both indoors and outdoors. After testing it on single-pitch outdoor routes, and inside on top rope, we realized the Pilot’s home is in the gym or on single-pitch outdoor routes.
Compare prices of the Black Diamond Pilot
For an assisted belay device, the Black Diamond Pilot is exceptionally light. Compared to the 7-oz GriGri+, this device is about half the weight. It accepts standard rope diameters, ranging from 8.7 to 10.5 mm. And it’s super easy to use. Just stick the rope in the opening, and clip a carabiner through the device like a Black Diamond ATC.
The main reason why we think the Black Diamond Pilot is best used in a gym environment is because it’s not very smooth. While you can belay a single strand on the Pilot, it’s much harder to pay out rope in the Pilot than say a standard ATC or the GriGri, which means you end up short roping your climber a lot. When it comes down to it, the Pilot is really a one trick pony. You wouldn’t use this device in a multi-pitch setting because it’s not lockable like the GriGri or the ATC Guide, and it’s not the best option for lead belaying.
Black Diamond is a champion in the world of sustainability. The company was one of the founding members of the Outdoor Industry’s Climate Action Corps, which measures greenhouse gas emissions in order to reduce their footprint on an annual basis.
Despite the BD Pilot’s hangups, it does handle that “one trick” well. This device is a great piece for single pitch top roping. And it’s comfortable to use, and it’s affordable.
Best belay device for multi-pitch climbing: Black Diamond ATC Guide
Type / Style: Tubular Belay Device
Recommended rope diameter: 8.1 to 11mm
Weight: 80g / 2.82 oz
What we liked: One of the most intuitive belay devices on the market
What we didn’t like: Doesn’t leave much of a margin for error
The Black Diamond ATC Guide is so simple to use, that it’s a great option for newbies and advanced climbers alike. This device is readily available in just about every gear shop you can find. It’s affordable, and you can easily see the mechanics of the device, making it easier for your brain to grasp the concept of belaying. It’s also one of the lightest products on the market, which matters when you’re on extended multi-pitch routes.
Compare prices of the Black Diamond ATC Guide
We took the Black Diamond ATC Guide out on a variety of climbs, including indoor and multi-pitch climbs in the Rockies, and we were quickly reminded why this device is such a staple product among climbers. It’s simple, it allows you to rappel on a double strand, it can be placed in guide mode for an assisted braking option, and it weighs less than half of the GriGri+.
In addition to accomplishing many basic belaying needs, the Black Diamond ATC Guide also costs just $35, and weighs 2.82 oz, which are numbers that are only rivaled by devices like the Mammut Nordwand Alpine and a standard ATC. It’s so lightweight that it can easily be carried on harnesses as a backup or rappel-specific device. It even comes with Black Diamond’s 2-year warranty.
The ATC Guide is a great device, and it’s one of the most popular products on the market because it has very few flaws. The main one of note is that when set in the standard mode, it leaves very little margin for error (if you take your hand off of the brake hand, it’s not going to catch your climber).
The reason why this is one of the best devices for multi-pitch climbing is because it’s safe, but also extra lightweight. It’s a great device for most environments. You essentially receive a fully-capable device for a fraction of the cost of say the GriGri.
Other belay devices we tested
As climbing becomes more popular, more and more brands are coming up with their version of the most iconic belay devices. There are a handful of belay devices that do the trick, but that lack some of the finesse and charm of competitive devices.
Mammut Smart 2.0
Type / Style: Assisted Braking Device
Recommended rope diameter: 8.7 to 10.5 mm
Weight: 80g / 2.82 oz
What we liked: Affordable price point
What we didn’t like: Included carabiner, unweighted use
The Mammut Smart 2.0is a popular assisted braking device in Europe, since it’s a recommended device by the German Alpine Association, and it’s super lightweight, but there were a few things we didn’t like about it. To start, the included carabiner comes with a gate that can only be closed when the carabiner is locked. While, in theory, this should fight negligence in a high-stakes environment, we prefer keeping our carabiners unlocked while they’re not in use on our harness for easy access.
The Smart is a simple belay device that uses friction and geometry to aid in stopping the climber, but it has to be weighted to easily feed slack out, which makes it frustrating on lead belay or as your climber reaches the ground. In some contexts, such as completely vertical rock,this device would perform well. But we found that it wasn’t quite smooth enough for constant use.
Compare prices of the Mammut Smart 2.0
Type / Style: Tubular Device
Recommended rope diameter: 7.7 to 11mm
Weight: 60g / 2.12oz
What we liked: Sold everywhere, affordable, lightweight
What we didn’t like: No safety features
Like the Black Diamond ATC Guide, the standard ATC is a tubular device that’s very easy to use and can be used to learn the mechanics of belaying. This device is sold everywhere, it’s easily the cheapest belay device, and it’s super lightweight, which means it could be used as a backup device or for rappelling alone. However, in multi-pitch settings, it lacks the safety features that create a redundant setup.
Compare prices of the Black Diamond ATC
What is a belay device and how does it work?
A belay device is a mechanical piece of gear that allows the belayer (typically a person on the ground) to arrest the fall of a climber.
Depending on the device, it uses friction to catch the rope.
The average climber owns several belay devices because of their functions and the environment in which they excel.
For example, some belay devices might not accept alpine-style ropes that feature a thin diameter. Carrying a few devices creates a more versatile rack.
Types of belay devices
Tubular Devices
Tubular belay devices are one of the most common types of devices. This style of device is most commonly referred to as the “ATC”, which is Black Diamond’s version of the mechanism.
They emerged as the go-to belay device in the early 90s. Most tubular devices contain two holes through which the belayer puts both strands of rope before clipping the loop and the ropes to the belayer’s harness.
Auto-blocking/Guide Devices
Auto-blocking devices, which are also commonly known as “guide” devices like the Black Diamond ATC Guide, are tubular-styled devices that contain an extra hole on top of the contraption that can be used to assist with braking. In order to place the device in guide mode, the belayer places an extra carabiner in the top hole, which will seize the rope. This type of device is commonly used in multi-pitch and alpine environments where climbers like to go light and fast.
Passive Braking Devices
Passive braking belay devices like the Mammut Smart 2.0 have a similar structure to standard tubular devices, but in order to catch the climber, they turn upwards to snag the rope between the carabiner and the belay device.
Active Braking Devices
Finally, active braking devices like the Petzl Grigri and GriGri+ use a mechanical force (a cam) to help the belayer to arrest a fall. The idea is that the device takes a portion of the strain off of the belayer, making for a more reliable catch.
What to look for in a belay device
Compatibility with ropes
Indoor climbers typically use ropes in the 9 mm range while alpinists are much more likely to snag a 8 to 8.5 mm rope. While the difference sounds small, when used in conjunction with the wrong belay device, the rope width can slip through the device, and fail to catch, potentially creating a fall scenario. Fortunately, the newer belay devices are beginning to accept a wider range of rope diameters, which means that it's easier to bypass any potential rope diameter issues.
Ease of use
New climbers can usually benefit from simple belay devices, such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, to remove the number of variables they have to master. Intermediate and advanced climbers may care more about versatility than ease of use.
Weight and portability
Every climber considers the weight and portability of a belay device before adding it to their harness. The reality is that we already carry dozens of pounds of metal and rope on a regular basis, which means that finding ways to cut the load is really important. While most belay devices weigh 7 oz or less, one important consideration is how many devices you’ll be carrying and how heavy they will be as a collective.
Safety features
Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport, so finding ways to mitigate risk makes for safer climbers. While this strategy relies partly on the knowledge of the climber, the right belay device can also reduce some risks like the assisted braking devices.
Durability
Unless you’re climbing 6 days a week and rappelling thousands of feet on the regular, you probably won’t have to worry about belay device durability. However, if you’re in the sport for the long haul, it might be worth taking a look at the device’s materials. A general rule of thumb is that once hard goods like belay devices have lost a millimeter of material to wear or developed sharp edges, it’s time to retire the device.
Versatility
The versatility of climbing gear becomes more prevalent as you develop the climbing skills and knowledge to climb in more settings. The more versatile your gear, the fewer pieces you’ll need down the road. So, choosing gear that has a lot of functions (like the Petzl GriGri or GriGri+) is a good way to set yourself up for success.
How to choose a belay device
Consider where you’ll be climbing
The first question that new belayers should ask themselves is: Where will you be climbing? Indoor top rope and lead belaying needs are likely going to be different from sport climbing or trad climbing needs. Say you land on indoor climbing as your main sport, then you should ask if you’ll be predominantly top roping or both top roping and leading.
While indoor climbing, factors like device weight and versatility are much less important than they would be in other environments, which means that you can probably get away with an affordable device with limited functions (think the Black Diamond Pilot, or Mammut Nordwand). Just keep in mind that some gyms have belay device requirements, and often in these situations they will provide the belay device for use.
Sport and trad climbers can typically benefit from a lightweight, versatile device like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or the Petzl GriGri since they are more inclined to hike a distance to get to the crag, and need to be able to problem solve after you end up descending past the rappel rings on a multi-pitch wall. Having devices that serve multiple functions better allows the climber to stay in control even in questionable environments.
Choosing the right belay device is just one aspect of a well-rounded climbing gear setup. To ensure your rope stays in excellent condition and is easy to transport, consider investing in a quality rope bag. Our guide on the Best Climbing Rope Bags offers top recommendations to help you find the ideal bag for your needs.
Cost
Another important factor that goes into choosing a belay device is cost. Most new climbers aren’t exactly looking to spend a year’s salary on a new climbing setup. In cases like this, they may benefit from an affordable but capable device like the Black Diamond ATC Guide, which is great indoors, outdoors, and on long alpine routes.
Belay device care and maintenance tips
Regular inspection and cleaning
Many climbers inspect their gear after a long day on the wall, looking for abrasions, new wear and tear, or imperfections that could compromise the gear’s safety. It’s a good habit to regularly evaluate your belay devices as well to ensure that you stay safe while climbing. Additionally, keeping gear clean ensures optimal functionality. While you don’t need to wash your belay devices every week, any time you start to notice new friction or a sluggish device, chances are that it could benefit from a bath. Keep in mind that any time your gear takes a fall, it could benefit from an inspection since this is often where it takes on the most damage.
Lubrication
Gear care helps to ensure the longevity of belay devices, and one strategy that can help is occasional lubrication. While belay devices often seem indestructible, they can benefit from some TLC every once in a while, too. After cleaning, washing your belay device with a diluted gentle soap, and allowing it to dry, you may apply a small amount of oil to the hinges of a device before wiping off the excess. This helps to reduce friction during use, contributing to a healthier device.
Storage
Like most outdoor equipment, climbing gear should be stored in a cool, dry place after it’s been completely dried. Belay devices are no different.
Avoid Contamination
Some climbers are adamant about keeping their gear on a rope tarp or in their bag at all times to avoid contamination. Asphalt can ding up your gear and create sharp edges. Dirt can become lodged in key areas of the belay device. So, it’s really important to stay cognizant of where you’re placing your gear when it’s not on your harness.
Follow manufacturer guidelines
Belay devices should always be used in alignment with the manufacturer’s instructions to eliminate failure. When in doubt, chat with a climbing instructor to ensure that you’re using the device properly.
Replace when necessary
Even the most avid climbers find that their belay devices last about 5 years. But sometimes we drop them down a wall, or scrape them against rocks or wind up in a situation where the device suffers. It’s really important to inspect your gear for this reason. If you find sharp edges or extra wear from use or rappelling, it’s likely time to retire your device.
FAQ
How do I know when it's time to replace my belay device?
If belay devices start to show signs of significant wear like grooves, sharp edges or cracks, chances are that it’s time to replace it. The most common contributors to worn belay devices include rappelling and dropping the devices from a great height.
Can I use my belay device for rappelling, or do I need a separate device for that purpose?
Most belay devices can also be used for rappelling. However, some devices only accept a single strand of rope, like the Black Diamond Pilot and the Petzl GriGri. So, your ability to rappel on a belay device depends on the rope setup. Most commonly, climbers use a tubular device like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or standard ATC to rappel on two strands of rope.
Are there any safety certifications or standards that I should look for when purchasing a belay device?
Look for the UIAA/CE certification prior to landing on a belay device. The UIAA developed safety standards for a few dozen different types of climbing gear.
What should I do if my belay device gets damaged or malfunctions while I'm climbing?
Belay devices don’t really fail. “Failures” are caused by human error. So, the best way to ensure that a device functions properly is by testing it before beginning the ascent. If a device is truly damaged during a climb, get yourself to safety and stop using the device in question.
Can you belay without a belay device?
The short answer is: yes. The Munter Hitch ( a rope knot that you fasten to a carabiner) can be used in emergency belay situations. However, this knot is best used in short-term situations since it places a lot of stress on the rope and can cause premature aging
Are there any special considerations or techniques for belaying a heavier climber or a climber with a significant weight difference?
Consider using a device with a mechanical advantage like the Petzl GriGri+, which helps to take some of the weight off of the belayer.
Can I use my belay device in wet or icy conditions, or are there specific weather-related limitations?
Most belay devices will function adequately in moderate wet and icy conditions. One common issue that climbers encounter is that ice tends to get trapped on the interior of the GriGri when used in winter ice climbing conditions. In these conditions, many climbers switch to the Black Diamond ATC Guide or a Munter Hitch.
Can I use my belay device with gloves, or will that affect its performance?
Belay devices can be used with gloves. Just keep in mind that gloves are usually bulky, which means you may lose some dexterity while belaying, which can make it easier to short rope and struggle with rope management.
How we tested
The Rocky Mountains make a great testing ground for belay devices since they feature a variety of terrain and climb types. Over the course of a month, we tested each belay device in the gym, outdoors on several moderate multi-pitch climbs with consistently windy conditions, and in an outdoor single-pitch environment in the heat. In cases where belay devices can be used in multiple settings, like the GriGri+ in top rope or guide mode, we investigated each option across all of the environments.
About the author / Why you should trust us
Mary Beth Skylis is a freelance writer who specializes in adventure content and travel. She’s been climbing across the globe for more than a decade, and is a total sucker for limestone, granite and long multi-pitch climbs. She currently works as a columnist for Backpacker Magazine. She also has by-lines in Climbing, REI, Alaska Magazine, Women’s Health, Outside Magazines, Trail Runner, SELF, and Yellow Scene. When she isn’t writing, she can typically be found in the Rocky Mountains with her pups. Follow her on Instagram: @h1kertrash
To see all of Mary Beth's stories, check her author page.