Ski Bindings: What are They and How to Choose
Understanding ski bindings and safe skiing essentials
Updated December 15th, 2024
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WHAT ARE SKI BINDINGS?
Ski bindings are the mechanical devices that attach your boots to your skis. They are meant to keep your skis attached as you glide downhill but are also designed to release – detaching the skis from your boots in the event of a crash, which helps to prevent injury.
There are different types of ski bindings, including alpine, touring, Nordic, and telemark. The primary bindings used for downhill skiing in both the resort and in the backcountry are alpine and touring bindings. These two types of bindings are not the same, and it’s important to understand why bindings matter for both performance from your gear and safety on the slopes.
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IMPORTANCE OF SKI BINDINGS
Skiing in alpine bindings. Photo courtesy Tom Callaghan
Bindings are an essential part of ski gear. Without them, we’d be left waddling in the snow in ski boots with no way to attach our feet to our skis and have some fun. Bindings are functional in this way and can greatly affect the performance of your skis, depending on which binding you choose.
More importantly, bindings are one of the most crucial pieces of gear for enhanced safety on the slopes. No binding can ever fully mitigate your risk of injury; skiing has inherent risk, after all. But, the right binding for your skiing style can help to significantly lower your risk of injury and keep you safer. The wrong binding, or incorrect binding settings, can increase your risk of injury. The best bindings not only help to keep you safer, but they also enhance the performance of your ski setup overall and allow you to have more fun.
TYPES OF SKI BINDINGS
AlPINE BINDINGS
The toe of an alpine binding. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
The heel of an alpine binding. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
Alpine ski bindings are the most common and what most folks will be familiar with. Alpine ski bindings are made with plastic, metal, or some combination of materials like this. They are designed with downhill performance, safety, and durability in mind. Alpine ski bindings lock both the toe and heel of your boots into the ski, so that the ski is fully attached at all times.
A toe piece and heel piece are attached to the ski and fitted specifically to your boots, and you step your boots into the binding to activate the heel piece, which will lock your foot in. A push mechanism on the heel allows you to release your boot from the binding when you’re ready to take your skis off.
A closeup of a typical alpine binding toe piece. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
There is an interface on the underside of the front of your boot and binding, called an anti-friction device (AFD), which allows your boot to release from the binding with enough force, like in the event of a crash. That means your boots must be alpine ski boots to work properly with alpine bindings.
Alpine bindings have some of the strictest certifications and safety standards in the industry. This is primarily in the form of DIN (Deutsches Institut für Normung, or the German Institute for Standardization). This rigid standard is what dictates the release value of the bindings, and it is the same across all alpine bindings on the market that are DIN certified. (This means that a DIN 6 release value on one model or brand will be the same on another.)
Not all non-alpine ski bindings (like touring and telemark) are required to meet the same DIN certifications as alpine bindings, so if you are downhill skiing in a ski resort, you should be using DIN-certified alpine bindings.
TECH BINDINGS FOR SKI TOURING
The toe piece of a touring binding. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
The heel piece of a touring binding. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
Touring bindings—also often called “AT” (for alpine touring) or “pin tech” bindings—are designed to release your heel so that you can walk your skis uphill (much like Nordic skis) with the least amount of resistance and weight possible, but then lock your heel in for the descent. Rather than the beefy mechanisms that hold your boots in on an alpine binding, touring bindings most commonly use a lightweight design that has pins holding the toe and heel of your boot in place. Your boots must have specific inserts, or small metal divots in the toes and heels, to be compatible with these types of bindings.
The pin tech inserts of a touring boot heel. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
The pin tech inserts of a touring boot toe. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
Touring bindings are meant for going both uphill and downhill on skis in the backcountry. They are not designed for downhill alpine skiing at a ski resort, largely because they are not held to the same safety and performance standards of alpine bindings. Touring bindings do often have some sort of safety certifications, but these are not consistent across the industry or between brands, and they are not required to pass DIN safety certifications. When used properly, these bindings will still release in the event of a crash, which helps prevent injury, but that release is not nearly as predictable and consistent as it is with alpine bindings.
Touring bindings are an excellent tool for backcountry skiers. They make skiing uphill far more efficient and enjoyable, and do a good job on the downhill, too. But they should be used specifically for this purpose; opt for alpine bindings when at a ski resort.
TELEMARK AND NORDIC BINDINGS
Telemark bindings are made for a specific style of skiing that leaves your heel unlocked on the downhill. While their purpose is still to attach your ski boots to your skis, they function quite differently from alpine bindings and require a different style and skill set for skiing with them properly. There are some different types of telemark bindings out there that are compatible with different boots (you need specific telemark boots to telemark ski), and some are considered safer than others. But none of these bindings go through the exact same strict safety standardization testing as alpine ski bindings
Nordic ski bindings are designed for use with cross-country skis. They are meant for mellower terrain and slower skiing. Your toe is attached to the ski and pivots so that you can walk with the skis, and your heel is completely free. With Nordic skis and bindings, your heel is never locked into place. These are incompatible with alpine skis or boots, as this is really a different sport altogether.
HOW SKI BINDINGS WORK
Alpine ski bindings work by using a toe piece, heel piece, and anti-friction device to hold your boot to the ski and release in the event of a crash. The plastic ledges on the heel and toe of your ski boots click into the binding. Alpine bindings also have brakes that release when your boot is not clicked in to prevent the skis from sliding away when you’re not attached.
Touring bindings work with a similar concept but different mechanisms to hold the boot in place and release it when necessary. Pin tech touring bindings often don’t require the extended plastic on the toe and heel of a ski boot and instead fasten you to the ski using metal pins that clamp into small divots in the toes and heels of your boots. Some have brakes, while others do not.
An example of the heel piece of an alpine ski binding. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
KEY FEATURES OF SKI BINDINGS
DIN SETTINGS (RELEASE SETTINGS)
The DIN settings on an alpine ski binding. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
Your release settings (DIN settings on alpine bindings) are one of the most important features in a binding. These settings control the amount of force it takes for your ski boot to pop out of the binding, and they’re calculated carefully using a number of factors, including height, weight, boot sole length, age, and skiing ability. You want these settings to be tight enough that you won’t pre-release while skiing downhill, but loose enough that they release your boot when necessary, like in a crash, to help prevent leg and knee injuries.
DIN settings are based on a number system from as low as 0.5 to as high as 18. The higher the number, the harder it is to pop out of the binding. You should always have the DIN calculated and adjusted on your bindings by a professional at a good ski shop; don’t do it yourself.
Note: DIN settings are primarily for alpine bindings. A handful of touring bindings are DIN certified, but most aren’t. These touring bindings still have numbered release settings that must be properly calculated and adjusted by a pro, but they are not the same as DIN, as the release mechanisms are not DIN certified.
BRAKES
Brakes are another important feature in bindings and are generally required to ski in bounds. These mechanisms are fairly simple: metal legs lined with plastic deploy from the heel of your binding on either side of your ski when your boot is not clicked in. These dig into the snow and prevent your ski from sliding away, whether because your ski fell off in a crash, or you're just trying to click in or out on a slope.
ELASTICITY AND AFD
Elasticity is a crucial component of alpine ski bindings, and it’s what sets them apart from most touring bindings. Elasticity means the binding has some give in the toe and heel as your boot moves.
Different bindings have different levels of elasticity, but all alpine bindings will allow your boot to move from side to side a certain amount of millimeters without popping out. Once it reaches a certain point, it will consistently pop your boot out at the maximum range. This has performance advantages in that it helps you engage more with the ski. But more importantly, this is one of the key safety features in alpine bindings. This elasticity helps to create consistency so that your boot always releases when it should from a binding.
The AFD (anti-friction device) is a plate that sits under the toe of your boot and interfaces with your boot sole. It slides back and forth and is another component of an alpine binding that helps your boot to release when necessary. It also adds to performance by acting as a sort of shock absorber, similar to the elastic travel in a binding.
ADJUSTMENT SETTINGS AND EASE OF USE
There are multiple adjustment settings on alpine bindings. These include DIN settings, as well as settings for your boot sole length, the height of your toe piece, and forward pressure. All of these settings should be done by a professional in a shop with your exact ski boots.
Some bindings are easier to step into than others, primarily depending on how strong and heavy the springs in the heel piece are. Often, lighter bindings are easier to step into and better for beginner skiers and smaller folks, while heavier, burlier bindings are tougher to step into and better for larger folks or more aggressive skiers.
TOURING MODES AND PIN TECH BINDINGS
A good example of a pin binding. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
Touring bindings have different features than alpine bindings, given that they are designed to walk uphill and ski downhill. Pin bindings do have release settings, but they are not DIN certified (on most models). Some have features that mimic the elasticity of an alpine binding, but no full pin binding has true elasticity like their alpine counterparts.
Also, unlike alpine bindings, touring bindings have features like heel risers, which help for skinning (going uphill) on steeper slopes. These bindings all have a distinct “tour mode” and “ski mode,” and how those transitions work between modes can differ depending on the brand and model.
HYBRID BINDINGS
Hybrid bindings are a smaller category but worth mentioning. These bindings have a ski mode that is like a true alpine binding, meaning they are fully DIN certified and meet all the safety standards for a downhill alpine binding. But, these bindings also have the ability to allow you to go uphill. (Some of the most popular models are the Salomon Shift and the Marker Duke PT.) These bindings are heavier and more complex than pin touring bindings, but they offer much better downhill performance and safety features than true pin touring bindings. They are often a bit more finicky and less durable than true alpine ski bindings, but they offer the versatility that alpine bindings do not.
Skinning uphill. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT SKI BINDINGS
CONSIDERATIONS FOR SKILL LEVEL
If you’re new to the ski game, there’s likely no reason to splurge on a top-end binding. All alpine bindings are DIN certified and meet strict safety standards (though no binding can ever guarantee that you won’t get injured). Look for a binding that’s easy to step into but also meets your needs for durability and DIN settings.
COMPATIBILITY WITH SKI BOOTS
An alpine boot (left) and a touring boot (right). Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
Not all bindings work with all ski boots. If you’re skiing in an alpine binding, you need an alpine ski boot. There are many hybrid options for boots that work with both alpine and pin tech touring bindings, but always check with someone at a shop to be sure.
WEIGHT AND PERFORMANCE FACTORS
Performance factors are a consideration for both alpine and touring bindings. The amount of elasticity, the binding platform, and the design of the heel and toe pieces can all affect performance in varying ways.
Often, but not always, weight increases with performance. Heavier bindings can also be more durable because of the materials used. When it comes to touring bindings, weight savings becomes more of a concern since you’ll be hauling those bindings up a hill under your feet. Find a balance of weight and performance that works for your style of skiing and your preferences and abilities.
SAFETY AND RELEASE CHARACTERISTICS
If you’re looking for an alpine ski binding, all of these will be held to the same standards for safety testing, and all will be DIN certified. Alpine bindings are made with different DIN ranges, however (for example, one model may have a DIN range from 1-7 while another may be 6-16). Pay attention to that to ensure you’re getting what you need. Have a good idea of what your DIN setting should be, and make sure you get a binding that can be set to that. From there, you can select a binding based on personal preferences.
An alpine boot in an alpine binding. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
PERSONAL PREFERENCES AND SKIING STYLE
The longer you ski and the more bindings you try, the more you’ll be able to determine personal preference. Some bindings are lighter than others, and some are made with a full metal design for maximum durability. Specific heel and toe designs vary, and much of this comes down to personal preference given that there are many excellent choices for alpine bindings on the market.
Personal preference is often even more of a factor when it comes to touring bindings, as there are so many different designs and features that exist today. You’ll want to consider safety features, weight, touring and downhill performance to find a balance of all those features to hone in on your ideal binding.
A comparison of two different alpine bindings. Photo courtesy Stasia Stockwell.
INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT
IMPORTANCE OF PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION
Ski bindings are somewhat complicated mechanisms, and having the right binding for you that’s adjusted to the proper settings is crucial for both performance and safety. Different calculations go into all of the settings, and many adjustments can be made at various points on the binding. An incorrectly set up binding will perform poorly at best and be dangerous to ski on at worst, so always take your bindings to a professional ski tech at a trusted shop anytime you need an adjustment.
ADJUSTING SKI BINDINGS FOR OPTIONAL PERFORMANCE
In order to get the best performance out of your bindings, you need them adjusted correctly. This includes adjusting them to your boot sole length (skiing in different boots requires different adjustments even if the boots are the same size, and can sometimes require a different mount or binding altogether). It also includes DIN settings, toe height adjustments, and forward pressure settings. Having all of these settings dialed by a professional, according to your boots, will get your bindings performing to their top level.
REGULAR MAINTENANCE AND INSPECTION
Keeping your skis stored in a dry place out of the sun is ideal for the bindings, too. Alpine ski bindings are designed to be very durable pieces of gear that can often last much longer than the life of a pair of skis or boots if you care for them properly–and that really doesn’t require much. Try not to step into the bindings too aggressively when skiing, and don’t just haphazardly chuck your skis onto the ground or into your car’s rooftop box when you're done. Skis gear, to a certain extent, is meant to take a beating on the slopes; if you handle them with the slightest bit of care they should remain durable for many seasons.
It’s a good idea to give your bindings a once-over at the beginning of each season, or after a crash. If any parts or screws are loose on your bindings, be sure to take them into a shop to have them checked out—sometimes a screw tightening is all you need. But the shop can inform you if the bindings need to be replaced. If you feel that your DIN settings need to be adjusted, have a shop check them out at the beginning of the season. And, if you have a new pair of boots, you’ll need to make sure your bindings have been adjusted to them before you start making turns.
SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS
REDUCING THE RISK OF INJURY
Ski bindings cannot eliminate the risk of injury on the slopes, but a proper setup can help to reduce that. The number one way to reign in that risk is to have your settings adjusted properly, especially your DIN. A higher DIN setting does not correlate with your ability as a skier, necessarily; there are many factors that go into this. If your DIN is set too high, your bindings may not release when needed, increasing the risk of injury, specifically to your legs and knees. Have a professional tech calculate your DIN setting and adjust your bindings to ensure the safest setup.
AVALANCHE SAFETY FOR BACKCOUNTRY BINDINGS
Touring bindings designed for backcountry skiing are quite different from alpine ski bindings, but safety and proper settings should still be a priority. Touring bindings are even more complex and nuanced than alpine bindings, so it’s especially important to have a pro at a shop make any adjustments for you.
Additionally, most touring bindings have the option to lock out the toe piece, stopping the bindings from releasing no matter what. This is intended so that your boot does not pop out of the binding while skinning uphill and should never be used for the downhill. Ensure that you understand how your bindings work and how to properly transition them from walk mode to ski mode.
COMMON ISSUES AND TROUBLESHOOTING
COMMON BINDING PROBLEMS
If your bindings have been set up properly by a professional ski tech, problems should be minimal. Often, if you’re having trouble stepping into them, it is due to snow or ice build-up on the soles of your boots or within the binding. If that’s the case, use the tip of your ski pole to scrape snow off your boots or binding, which should resolve the problem.
If you are having issues pre-releasing, if you feel your DIN settings should be adjusted, or if your boot moves or rattles when clicked into the binding, check for loose screws and take them into a shop to have them inspected and adjusted by a tech.
HOW TO IDENTIFY AND ADDRESS ISSUES
Often, problems with bindings are identified by feeling or noticing them on the slopes, whether that’s a pre-release problem or a rattling. Checking your bindings for loose parts or screws before skiing can help identify issues before you start skiing. If you want to ensure they are good to go…you guessed it! Pop into a good ski shop and have them take a look.
WHEN TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE
Aside from snow and ice buildup on the boots or binding mechanisms, there aren’t many binding issues that don’t require the help of a professional tech. You should not try to adjust your DIN settings or twist other screws around the binding without the help of a pro, as this can affect the safety features of your bindings. Most ski areas have ski shops at the mountain bases with techs working daily. They’re there to help you out when you need it.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR / WHY YOU SHOULD TRUST US
A true mountain dweller, Stasia feels far more at home on a high alpine ridge than on a busy city street. She’s worked as a backpacking guide in Southeast Alaska, has held a WFR cert, AIARE 1, AIARE 2, and Avalanche Rescue certifications, and is working to become an avalanche education instructor. She’s now a full-time freelance writer and editor working primarily in the outdoor recreation realm. Her bylines can be found in Backpacker, 5280, and REI’s Uncommon Path, among others, and she’s been testing and writing about gear for nearly a decade. She is also the managing editor of the new print zine, Trails Magazine.
Stasia has been skiing since she could walk, and after all those years on the slopes she’s stepped into dozens of different ski bindings. She spent some time working in a local ski shop in Breckenridge, Colorado, where she learned the nitty gritty details of ski bindings – from burly alpine bindings to ultralight tech touring ones and all the settings and adjustments that come along with that.
Additionally, she’s been testing and writing about ski gear for over a decade. When she’s not skiing and testing gear for work, you’ll find her out just about every day in the winter making turns in the resort and the backcountry or nerding out at home with a cup of good coffee studying avalanche safety and snow conditions, or listening to an in-depth podcast on ski gear and boot fitting.
More of her work and adventures can be found on her website.
To see all Stasia’s Treeline articles, see her author profile.
