Rafting the Main Fork of the Salmon River
There’s a reason they call the Salmon “The River of No Return” — you’ll never want to leave.
July 25th, 2024
Location: Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness, Idaho
Distance: 80 miles
Days: 4–6
Average gradient: 12 ft/mile
Best season: May-June
Permits: June-early September (lottery), USFS early and late season
Difficulty: Class III/IV
Recommended Max Flow: 25,000 cfs
Recommended Min Flow: 4,000 cfs
Permit Required: Yes
Main Fork of the Salmon River Rafting Background
There’s a reason they call the Salmon “The River of No Return” — you’ll never want to leave. Spending 4-6 days rafting through dramatic green valleys over beautiful rapids and pool-drop water is a dream come true. Camping on pristine white beaches alongside wildlife and gorgeous spruce and pine forests is the icing on the cake.
Quick Facts
The Nez Perce tribe first inhabited this area and ruins and petroglyphs can be found along the river. NRS’ Duct Tape Diaries hosted a great film on the legacy of the Salmon and the Nez Perce people.
The Salmon River was first named Lewis’s River for Meriwether Lewis, even though Lewis and Clark were too intimidated by the waterway to navigate it.
The Salmon is known as “the river of no return.” Navigators could raft down the river, but could not return upstream because the currents were too strong and the rapids too large. Since this area doesn’t have an easy roadway (or roads, period) and the canyon walls are too steep to travel across, once you reached the river’s end, you were done.
Salmon (the fish) travel from the Pacific Ocean to the Columbia, Snake, then Salmon Rivers to spawn. That’s about 1,800 miles of travel, and it’s one of the longest spawning runs in the world.
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The Main Salmon River is a classic rafting trip worthy of its epic status. Photo by Matt McDonald.
Highlights
Hot springs
Beach camps
Petroglyphs
Pool-drop rapids
Challenges
Bugs
Rain
Popular
Jetboats
when to go
Summer. Check conditions (below). Unless you are a very experienced boater, you do not want to raft the Main Salmon above 6 feet.
Difficulty and Skills
Rapids
There are 14 major rapids on the Main Fork Salmon River:
Class III-IV+
This depends on water level.
CFS: 4,000-25,000
As the Main Salmon doesn’t have its own gauge, the trick is to add the CFS from the Middle Fork/Main Fork confluence to the Shroup water gauge. When you’ve checked that out, reference this handy water height chart. Unless you are a very experienced boater, you do not want to raft the Main Salmon above 6 feet.
The author rafted this section at 27,000 CFS on our highest day. While many of the Class II and even a few Class III rapids were washed out, Class III wavetrains could be found in the middle of a “flat section” on the map. If you go in early highwater season, keep your head on a swivel. One of our boats dumptrucked on an innocent looking pourover with wicked eddylines that sucked down the fully-geared boat’s tubes.
Low water is a whole new ball game. Look out for exposed boulders mid-river, pourover rocks with consequential eddies, and rapid elevation loss (read: tricky rapid).
Permits
Required:
Permit (note: a reservation is not a permit—it needs to be signed in-person by a ranger)
Lottery permit, if applicable season
Aquatic Invasive Species (AIS) stickers
Permits are required year-round by the Salmon-Challis National Forest offices.
Pre-season: From January 1 to mid-June is considered the Salmon River’s preseason.
Peak season: June 20 to September 7 is peak season where you enter a lottery for a reservation.
Post-season: Early September to the end of December is considered post-season.
Lottery applications:
Lottery applications run December 1-January 31, while pre- and post-season permits may be applied for beginning October 1.
All boats must be cleaned from previous rivers and obtain Aquatic Invasive Species (AIS) stickers.
Permit information (and reservations) can be found here.
Make sure that your permit is easily accessible at all times. Take it from the author’s friend, a former River Ranger on the Salmon; there’s nothing “river cops” love more than making you unpack your whole dry bag to find your permit!
There are also $4 recreation fees per person per day and a $6 non-refundable lottery or reservation fee.
Full trip requirements can be found here.
The route through the Frank Church River of No Return Wilderness takes you through wild and desolate country. Photo by Matt McDonald.
route summary
This description is for your reference, but always call the ranger station for the most updated information and check local maps.
The Main Fork of the Salmon River can look like prehistoric havens, rolling green Scottish hills, and Caribbean beaches with a few miles difference. The river winds through steep valleys with jagged pines sprouting along the lower hills. Large beaches dot the river banks, making for prime campsites. This river is great for families and varied groups at low- to mid- river levels with a spread out pool-drop system.
Maps and Guidebooks
Gaia
We used Gaia navigation phone app because it’s easy to use to check if we are on route. The GPS tracking was super useful for finding the correct campsites at highwater (there are no signs), and for knowing when rapids were approaching.
Maps
RiverMaps Guide to the Middle Fork and Main Salmon Rivers
This guideback includes detailed maps of rapids, scouting positions, campsites, and interesting sights along the Middle and Main Forks of the Salmon River. While it’s written from a middle- to low-water perspective (read: those highwater wave trains were never even mentioned) the campsite and mileage information is invaluable.
The Main Salmon River is a dog friendly trip. Photo by Matt McDonald.
Put-Ins and Take-Outs
Put in
Corn Creek Campground (45.370225, -114.687933)
Nearest town: Salmon, ID
Salmon is your last chance for major supplies and gas, although there is a small convenience store at the turn-off for Corn Creek, and a convenience store at a resort down the road. Don’t count on the latter in early or late season, however. Salmon is also your last chance for gas before you head down and back from Corn Creek, so if you’re below a ½ tank, fill ‘er up. (Shuttle companies will require you to leave gas money for them to refuel, but don’t leave them stranded on fumes at the put-in, please.)
Corn Creek Campground is also 2.5 hours by semi-paved, mostly dirt road from Salmon. If you want to spend a night at a hotel in Salmon before your put-in day, just keep that in mind.
Take Out
Carey Creek (45.453106, -115.945599)
Nearest town: Riggins, ID
Ah, Riggins. “How Idaho Used to Be.” Riggins is a small cowboy town with a rafting problem… they just don’t know it. There are a few restaurants and coffeeshops, plus one medium grocery-store for last-minute items. Don’t plan on stocking up in Riggins, but it’s great if you take out in time for dinner!
Getting There
Remember, both the put-in and the take-out require driving on winding, washboard-riddled dirt roads with places where two vehicles cannot pass each other. While the mileage may seem low, we assure you, Google Maps is 99.9% correct about the drive time. (The 0.1% we reserve for stopping to gawk at the gorgeous scenery.)
You could fly into Bozeman, Missoula, Spokane, or Boise and rent a car to get to Salmon, but that’s more logistics than we planned out. Check with your shuttle and gear rental companies to see if they offer human transportation from Salmon to Corn Creek, or Carey Creek into Riggins. (Riggins is going to be much more difficult to rent a car in, as it’s so small.)
To Corn Creek via Salmon, ID:
Seattle — 11.5 hours, 640 miles
Denver — 14 hours, 810 miles
Boise — 7.5 hours, 315 miles
Bozeman — 5.5 hours, 260 miles
Salt Lake City — 8 hours, 440 miles
To Carey Creek via Riggins, ID:
Seattle — 8 hours, 450 miles
Denver — 16 hours, 990 miles
Boise — 4 hours, 175 miles
Bozeman — 8.5 hours, 440 miles
Salt Lake City — 9 hours, 520 miles
Shuttle Services
River Shuttles out of Salmon, ID, was our choice of shuttle company. They’re a reasonable rate, reliable, and leave detailed notes about gas purchased and remaining gas money.
Resupply
Buckskin Bill’s Museum has ice, beer, and a few snacky treats, but don’t count on a full food resupply. However, with a max of 6 days on the river, you should have plenty of cooler space for all your meals. See our Gear section in this story for what we took and why or our Best Camping Coolers story for more information on coolers for longer rafting trips.
Rules and regulations
Here’s a list of some of the regulations in the Frank Church Wilderness for water travel. Be sure to check what is written on your permit and talk to the ranger about conditions before you go. See the US Forest Service site for a complete list.
Follow Leave No Trace Ethics including camping and pooping far from water. But for #1, the solution to pollution is dilution; urinate directly into the river.
Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness does allow dogs. Dogs must be leashed around other groups and wear their lifejacket at all times while on a boat.
Group size restrictions based on the season.
Carry a printed and signed version of your permit on your person at all times.
Strain all kitchen waste water. Pack out all trash, including kitchen scraps. Don’t pollute the river with extra food!
Do not use soap (even biodegradable) in any stream, river, hot spring, or other waterway. Throw all soapy water at least 200 feet away from any waterway.
Every group must carry a portable toilet, and pack out any pet feces.
Every group must carry a fire pan and ash container.
Every group must carry a strainer fine enough to catch coffee grounds from grey water.
Every group must carry a bucket and shovel for fire prevention.
Every group must bring sand stakes to secure the boats at camp.
Max group size is 30 people year-round.
Campsite Planning
Some campsites along the Main Salmon are by reservation only, while others are first-come first-serve. Reserved campsites must be occupied by 7:00 PM and vacated by 12:00 (NOON) MST. But if no one shows up to a reserved site by 7:00 PM, they forfeit, and it’s yours to snag.
Campsite selection will vary greatly by water level, so take that into consideration when checking out reservation sites. Some beach camps that are fabulous at low water are completely non-existent at high water.
Water Planning
River water is potable, but we’d bring a filtration system along. You can also bring water jugs along with you, especially if you’re planning on bringing rafts. Strap a few into the bow for ballast, and you’re set to go at every camp.
Bears and Food Storage
There are no bear canister requirements, but it is a good idea to keep all your food collected in locked coolers and drybags overnight. This is grizzly bear habitat.
Designate a camp kitchen area away from the tent area.
See REI’s guide on How to Camp in Bear Country for more tips on keeping our kitchen clean and safe.
Side Trips
Before heading on side trips, make sure to have good maps, check your guidebooks, and your GPS app.
Barth Hot Springs
This is the perfect way to unwind those rowing shoulders and relax even more. Just make sure to unplug the stopper when you’re done!
Buckskin Bill’s
If you want a great history of the Salmon River’s treasure trove of artifacts and dots on the map, check out this NRS Duct Tape Diaries article. Stop here for an ice cream and a tour of Bill’s watchtower.
Petroglyphs
There are several petroglyphs along the canyon walls. Some are easily accessible from the river, while others may require a hike. Be respectful of cultural artifacts and leave everything you find as is.
Historic Buildings
Check out pioneer-era cabins, schoolhouses, and more along the river banks. Your guide book will have mile markers, descriptions, and even pictures of what you’re looking for. Be respectful of cultural artifacts and leave everything you find as is.
favorite post-trip food stop
Seven Devil’s Steakhouse is our favorite choice for post-river dinner, but Two Rivers Coffee is a primo spot to get your latte (and breakfast burrito) game on track.
Gear Rentals
There are multiple gear rental companies in both Salmon and Riggins, depending on where you’re coming from shuttle-wise and what all you need.
This means if you’re bringing along your best friend who’s never rafted before, you don’t have to drop $1,000 on gear they may not use again.
Many companies have full oar and paddle raft set-ups for rent, while others can provide just the basics — Paco pads, camp kitchens, groovers (you may just dump it at the SCAT machine in Riggins, yourself), spare oars, helmets, raft trailers, PFDs, dry bags, etc. Or, rent an inflatable kayak and games for camp. It’s a whole wide world out there!
We had to call a few companies for smaller rental items (like Paco pads) but they were very easy to work with. Ultimately, we chose Salmon River Experiences in Riggins, since the majority of our group came from that direction and had a trailer to haul the extra gear to Salmon. They were great to work with, and were absolutely fine when we dropped off our rental gear after-hours. (Not recommended, but a flip-boat-chase took up 5 hours that we expected to have lazing around town!)
Gear List
This is a list of what we carried. For more Water Sport gear recommendations, see our Water Sport Gear section and our Camping Gear recommendations.
| GEAR | PRODUCT |
|---|---|
| Boat | 9-16 Foot raft |
| Tent | Kelty Night Owl 4P (discontinued) |
| Tarp | Trademark Supplies Tarp |
| Sleeping bag | Marmot Trestles Elite Eco 20 (men's) Marmot Trestles Elite Eco 20 (women's) |
| Sleeping pad | Jack's Plastic Super Paco Pad |
| Stove | 2-Burner Stove x2 |
| Cooking pan | Cast Iron Skillet x2 |
| Storage | Sea to Summit Big River Dry Bags |
| Backup water treatment | Katadyn Steripen Ultra UV Purifier |
| Footwear | Astral River Shoes Chaco Sandals |
| Socks | Darn Tough Socks |
| Neoprene socks | NRS Sandal Socks |
| Splash pants | Splash Pants |
| Insulated top | NRS HydroSkin Tops |
| Insulated leggings | NRS HydroSkin Pants |
| Sun hat | Kavu Chillba Hat |
| PFD* | PFD |
| River helmet | River Helmet |
| Whistle* | Fox 40 Classic Safety Whistle |
| Mapping app | GAIA GPS |
| Guidebook | RiverMaps Guide to Middle Fork & Main Salmon Rivers |
| Rescue knife* | NRS Captain Rescue Knife |
BOAT
We would recommend a raft between 9’ and 16’ long, depending on how many people you will have in the boat, and how much gear you’re bringing, too. Groups can bring inflatable kayaks or hardshell kayaks, but rafts carry more gear. Just saying. Permits require spare oars. See our guide to Best Inflatable Kayaks for more recommendations.
TENT
We used the Kelty Night Owl 4 (now discontinued) on this trip for one couple. While it may be a bit excessive, this is river camping; excess room is welcome room. We love its combination of super-fast set up and wide stargazer mesh, perfect for bugs and catching the wilderness sky. That's why it's one of our top picks on our Best Camping Tents story.
TARP
Pack a 10’x10’ tarp, at least, but bigger tarps can be helpful for larger groups. Tarps can turn a rainy evening into one of the best group hangout nights, and give you a dry place to make that kick-butt masala you’ve been waiting to whip up.
SLEEPING BAG
Our Marmot Trestles 20F sleeping bags were plenty warm, even on colder, rainy nights. See our Best Sleeping Bags story for more recommendations.
SLEEPING PAD or mattreess
We both used Jack’s Plastic Paco pads on this trip. Their extra insulation helped with cold, damp ground. They’re waterproof, self-inflating, and make great padded seats on the boat. See our guide to Best Camping Mattresses for more recommendations.
COOKING SYSTEM
We used two 2-burner propane stoves with cast iron pans and a large soup pot for a group of 10 people.
WATER FILTER AND STORAGE
We brought a Steripen as backup, but did not use it; we packed in plenty of water for the five days. The Steripen is lightweight, easy to use, and provides almost instant clean water. It’s one of the winners in our Best Backpacking Filters story.
MINOR MEDICAL KIT
Having small med kits in easily-accessible places on each boat is a good idea. Band-aids, medical tape, and even chapstick can be all you need. See our guide to Make Your Own Emergency Kit for this kind of situation.
MAJOR MEDICAL KIT
You’re on a multi-day trip; you need emergency supplies. We recommend items like gauze, Band-aids, medical tape, vet wrap, Benadryl, antibiotic cream, eye drops, butterfly strips, iodine wipes, nitrile gloves, a CPR mask, ibuprofen, upset stomach medication, and any medications your group takes regularly.
HEADLAMP
You’ll need one for camp. If you are in the market for a new one, check out our Best Headlamps story.
HYPOTHERMIA KIT
Cold water can shock your system even if it’s 90 degrees out. As we found out when one team member accidentally dumptrucked into the water, cold clothes make a bad situation even worse.
Bring extra warm clothes like fleece leggings, wool baselayers, thick jackets, and a warm hat for anyone who takes a swim. The bigger the better, too, to accommodate everyone’s size and height. See our Best Synthetic Jackets guide for layers that are warm, even when wet.
PIN KIT
Also known as a Z-drag kit, every group should have at least one pin kit to rescue a boat pinned against a rock or strainer mid-river. Pin kits include prussiks, water-rated rope, at least two pulleys, and extra carabiners. Check out how to set up a Z-drag with Paddling Mag.
SHOES / sandals
Classic river wear takes the form of Chacos, but they may not be your favorite water shoes. Half of our group wore Chaco sandals, and the other half wore Astral river shoes. The ones with Chacos mostly wished they had worn Astrals. Just saying. See our guides to Best Wet Wading Shoes and Best Hiking Shoes for more ideas.
HEADLAMP
We carried the Black Diamond Revolt, which worked well for midnight bathroom excursions, was lightweight enough (and small enough) to throw in either a dry bag or a jacket pocket, and stood up well to sandy beaches. See our Best Headlamps story.
FOOD
We’re going to say this only once — coolers, coolers, coolers. Food storage, food packing, and food planning all revolves around coolers. If you have larger cooler space, you’ll have an abundance of room for fresh veggies, more fruits, and more contents, period. We researched, tested, and reviewed coolers on the Main Salmon River for our Best Camping Coolers guide. If you’re short on cooler space but have dry bags to spare, throw your dry goods into a dry bag.
Water levels and group preference will determine how intense of meals you want to prepare, but it’s the river — you can go big, you can get creative, and you can bring out the gourmet goods. Plan for lunches on individual boats with easy-make items like wraps, jerky, fruit, veggies, pretzels, etc. Breakfasts can be simple granola bars (but that’s no fun) or biscuits and gravy a la Salmon. Each couple in our group was in charge of a breakfast and a dinner, while each raft handled their own lunches (and kayaks just ate on flat water) and it worked out perfectly.
FOOD STORAGE
There are no food storage requirements, but we still recommend packing your food each night. See REI’s guide on How to Camp in Bear Country for more tips on keeping our kitchen clean and safe.
PFD, RIVER KNIFE & WHISTLE
These are essential, and the river rangers won’t let you go without these items. Every person should have a PFD, and every PFD should have a rescue knife and a whistle for safety. Check out our story on Best Personal Flotation Devices article for the best options. If you’re traveling with kids under 18, see our Best Life Jackets for Kids guide.
HELMET
Like motorcycles, some rafters choose not to wear helmets in whitewater. As someone who’s fallen off of a motorcycle and smashed her head on river rocks, I always bring a river helmet for anything over Class III. Find one that’s rated for whitewater, but is also comfortable for several hour stretches. (You can take it off on flatwater, don’t worry!)
WHAT TO WEAR rafting
Below is what we wore on our Main Fork Salmon River trip. Read about our favorite things to wear while backpacking and hiking at our Outdoor Apparel page.
Rain Jacket/Shell
A rain jacket is a great alternative to a paddle jacket, since it’s effective in camp and on the water. Trust us — one of our members brought a paddle jacket only, and suffered the first night in camp until we pulled out the spare rainshell from our hypo kit. See our Best Rain Jackets guide for more suggestions on rain jackets we recommend.
Rain pants or splash pants
Not everyone loves getting drenched by whitewater, especially on cold or rainy days. Splash pants will keep most of the water off of you and keep you comfy for longer. See our Best Rain Pants guide for more recommendations.
Neoprene and/or fleece leggings
For colder days, big whitewater, or those who just don’t love cold water, fleece leggings are going to be your best friend. There are several thickness options depending on when and where you want to use them, but the thicker, the warmer. Neoprene is designed to keep you warm in every water condition, and are pretty quick drying.
Neoprene and/or fleece top
Your top half needs to be warm, too. Our NRS HydroSkin tops (and bottoms) made great layering pieces and they come in pull-over or full-zip options.
Down jacket
Gotta be warm at camp! See our Best Down Jackets article for our jackets we’ve researched, tested, and loved.
Sun hoodie
A light layer that’s also UV-protective. This will keep you cool and comfortable on the water and prevent sunburns galore. See our Best Sun Shirts story for more on the sun protection.
Pair shorts
A pair of board shorts, athletic shorts, or rafting-specific shorts will work well on the boat. Bring a second pair to wear around camp, if you want! See our Best Women’s Running Shorts or Best Thru-hiking Shorts stories for shorts that we love for active use outdoors.
Quick-dry t-shirts
Make sure you have two shirts to choose from, especially if one is still wet from the day before. See our Best Men’s Running Shirts or Best Men’s Hiking Shirts guides for men’s apparel. Our Best Women’s Running Shirts guide has ideas, too.
Long-sleeve shirt
Something comfy and cozy that you can wear around the campfire! An extra hoodie works well for this, too. See our Best Baselayers story for ideas.
Pair OF underwear
For camp only. See our Best Men’s Hiking Underwear and Best Women’s Hiking Underwear guides for recommendations.
Pair socks
For camp only. We personally love Darn Tough. See our Best Hiking Socks story for more ideas.
Pair neoprene socks
Your feet will thank you for wearing Neoprene Socks when they’re in 40 degree water all day!
Pair sweatpants
For camp only.
Warm hat
For use on camp or on the river.
Sun hat
This is one piece of clothing you don’t want to forget! Being on the river for hours on end can be exhausting with the sun beating down, and a sunhat will give you extra stamina. We’re fond of the Kavu Chillba. See our Best Sun Hats guide for more recommendations.
Pair gloves or mittens
These will save your rowing hands, or keep you even warmer if you’re the passenger. Rain can feel like sleet when you’re out rowing down the river in cold water. See our Best Winter Gloves story for some suggestions that are affordable that can also work on the water during summer.
Map
Your guide book should have a waterproof map, but if not, print out and laminate the section of river you plan to raft.
Sun Protection
Bring sunscreen and apply it. Period. Sunglasses will also be incredibly helpful on the sun-reflective river. See our guide to Best Running Sunglasses (they won’t fall off—but remember a floaty and a Croakie) and Best Body Sunscreen guide for more recommendations.
Swim Suit
Wear this under your other river clothes (or as your river clothes!) so you’re all ready for jumping in.