Guide to Canoeing in Voyageurs National Park
Find solitude in one of the least visited national parks in the lower 48
July 26th, 2024
While not technically a part of the official Boundary Waters Canoe Area, Voyageurs National Park is a hidden gem in that watershed—and one of the least-visited national parks in the lower 48. When canoeing or kayaking on lakes with undeveloped shores, you’ll find peace and quiet here, especially in early summer, when the snow is completely melted out but temperatures are still cooler.
Distance: 10+ miles by canoe
Days: 3
Best season: Early Summer
Permits: Camping Reservations Required
Difficulty: Moderate
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Wildlife on Kabetogama Lake.
Quick Facts to canoe Kabetogama Lake
I knew that popular parks such as Zion and Yosemite would be filled to the brim with people, and wanted a more remote experience. After doing some research, I decided that Voyageurs National Park would be the perfect place for a backcountry adventure.
The Boundary Waters of Northern Minnesota sit on the border of the United States and Canada. While not technically a part of the official Boundary Waters Canoe Area, Voyageurs National Park is a hidden gem in that watershed—and one of the least-visited national parks in the lower 48. You’ll definitely find peace and quiet here, especially in early summer, when the snow is completely melted out but temperatures are still cooler.
Voyageurs National Park is a beautiful place: positioned in the transition area between primarily evergreen boreal forests and primarily deciduous forests, the diversity of plants is astounding. In the summer, the park offers camping, fishing, water sports, and hiking trails, while in the winter, ice fishing, cross country skiing, and other snow sports are on offer.
But what sets Voyageurs apart is its incredible opportunity for water travel. While a visit for canoeing or kayaking in the park requires some advance planning-and likely rented equipment—if you opt not to get out on the water, you’ll only experience a fraction of what this national park has to offer. I decided to head over in late May and planned a canoe trip for Lake Kabetogama, the largest in the park. I opted to canoe about fifteen miles with my girlfriend, though the course was altered by the wind. My trip did not include portages—carrying the canoe from one lake to another—though portages are ample and popular in Voyageurs.
Water travel can offer appreciation for the natural world. Photo by Michael Degan.
Highlights
Water Travel
Few backcountry experiences offer water travel; fewer still in national parks. The water offers unique challenges: in a canoe or kayak, you’re at the mercy of the wind and weather, no matter how strong of a paddler you are. This can add to your appreciation for the natural world, as the lake is something you can’t control. You may travel across it, but no matter how strong you are, the water is much more powerful. The experience is humbling.
Quiet
National parks are often pretty crowded, so if you’re looking to avoid crowds, consider Voyageurs. Where parks like Great Smoky Mountains National Park saw 12.5 million visitors, Voyageurs saw fewer than 233,000. In our time on Kabetogama Lake, one of the thirty lakes in Voyageurs National Park, we seldom saw another boat and regularly had entire islands to ourselves. Rainy Lake is the most popular spot in the Park, but even it doesn't see as many visitors as other parks. If you’re looking for a quiet getaway, look no further than the backcountry of Voyageurs.
Stars
Light pollution is nil, and a clear night sky on Kabetogama is a sight to be had. The northern part of the lake has an undeveloped shoreline. If astronomy’s your thing, the lake is the perfect place to put a blanket down and gaze at the stars. While early summer is the best time to visit, if you’ve got the cold-weather skills and gear to head out in early spring, you’ll have a chance to see the Northern Lights.
Ellsworth Rock Garden
A unique art installation worth going out of your way to see. The garden took over thirty years to build, and the sculptures are as interesting as they are bizarre.
Challenges
Wind
Wind can make your time on the water difficult, especially if you’re paddling into a headwind. Not only is it harder to stay on course, but working harder to go slower can be incredibly frustrating for paddlers. In stronger winds, watercraft can even capsize (though we were fortunate enough to stay afloat). Keeping close to the shores of islands on your route can help, as they can act as natural windbreaks, depending on what direction the wind is blowing in from. Even if the wind or weather don’t completely cooperate, taking breaks, eating snacks, and keeping a positive attitude can make a trip much more enjoyable.
Always check the weather before leaving out on a paddling trip. If you know you’ll be contending with wind, I recommend kayaking as opposed to canoeing, as kayaks are easier to maneuver in the wind-though I personally find canoeing more relaxing. If the wind is over 12 mph, consider postponing your trip until the weather improves. Better to hold off for a day than to be bailing water.
Food
While we planned out our meals for the trip, we greatly underestimated how many calories we’d be burning while we paddled. We ended up going through a lot more food than we’d initially planned to. We packed enough food for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks each day, but ended up eating more than planned, we, fortunately, packed just enough snacks to give us the energy needed to complete the trip. Once we got back, we treated ourselves to a large meal from our grocery stash in the car, which is the recommended safety protocol for this park (but is not at every national park so check local rules before you do this elsewhere). Generally, I’d recommend packing 500 calories for every hour you’ll be paddling-and even more in adverse conditions like wind, rain, or cold.
Sunset and dark night skies on the lake are one of the highlights of this trip. Photo by Michael Degan.
when to go
Early summer-late May and early June-is the best season to plan a trip to Voyageurs, as visitation is low and temperatures are moderate. During our weekday early summer visit, we rarely saw or heard another person, though we’d occasionally catch glimpses of a motorboat or two in the distance.
At this time, temperatures in the day sit between 60-70F, while temperatures in the night hover around 40F. As someone who enjoys cool climates, I thought these temperatures were ideal, though if you run cold you’ll want to bring along extra layers.
While there is some precipitation, the weather is mild-May sees an average of 3.5 inches of rain. Skies are cloudy some days, but for the most part, we had clear weather.
Voyageurs may be one of the least-visited national parks, but that doesn’t mean it’s always empty. July and August see peak visitation, with most visitors renting a motorboat, houseboat, or going on a Rainy Lake. Weekends are more crowded than weekdays. For later season visits, you’ll want to make sure to carry bug spray to fend off mosquitoes and biting flies.
Difficulty and Skills
Physical Exertion
I found this trip to be moderately difficult. I am an experienced hiker, and found this trip to be around the same difficulty as a hike, though the strain is on your back and arms, not your legs. If you’ve never been canoeing or kayaking, I would recommend exercising your upper body to prepare, as you will need to paddle for several hours at a time.
Boating and Boat Care Skills
If you’ve never been canoeing or kayaking before, or if your water-based skills are limited, we highly recommend taking a water skills class before going.
For kayaking, the Essential Kayaking Skills course (also available as a women’s only course) focus on proper strokes and paddling technique to make your energy use more efficient. Depending on your route and conditions—for example, such as if it is windy—a Level 2 Kayak Paddling Course on Edging and Bracing will teach you how to prevent capsizing and boat handling.
For folks with more experience, it never hurts to review boat safety when headed out on the water. See our Best Personal Flotation Devices and Best Kids’ Personal Life Jackets and Flotation Devices guide for basic boat safety information and where to learn more about boat safety.
Plan to travel about a mile an hour (or less, if the wind is being troublesome). When “putting in” to shore in order to explore or camp, you’ll want to pull your canoe several feet above the water line, so it doesn’t drift off without you unexpectedly. Store your paddles in the boat when it is beached so they’re easier to find. You can plan a trip without portaging between lakes, but if you decide to lake hop, take care with the canoe as you don’t want to damage the hull.
Navigation
We primarily used a map and compass-which you’ll want to be familiar with before you go, especially since navigation can be a little more confusing on the water than it is on land. For example, Cutover Island is so large that we mistook the island for the shore of the lake!
As a backup, I’d recommend the mobile app Gaia GPS, which can be useful and is great in case of emergencies. We got lucky and had phone service (Verizon) on Kabetogama Lake.
We downloaded GPS-enabled maps to our phones that allowed us to gather our bearings. Download the app and maps you need before you go, just in case. The National Park Service also has GPS waypoints you can download to help with navigation.
Toilets
While all frontcountry campsites may have toilets, many backcountry campsites do not. You will need to pack toilet paper and a trowel in order to dig holes.
Permits
While you don’t need a permit for day paddling, campsites must be booked in advance. Permits are free and can be reserved online, but they must be printed and placed near your site. You’ll want to print these out before you head out, as it's difficult to find a printer once you arrive in the area. You may be able to get a permit at a visitor center.
Route Summary
Preparation took around four days. First, my partner and I decided to be out for three days and two nights, as that timeframe fit our schedule. Then we figured out how much food we’d need, choosing breakfasts, lunches, dinners, and snacks. Then we scoped out a route that would take us to several of the destinations along the lake we wanted to see including Cutover Island and Ellsworth Rock Gardens.
We set off on Kabetogama Lake early in the morning from the Arrowhead Lodge on the Kabetogama Peninsula. We wanted to give ourselves enough time to reach our island destination at Cutover campground, five miles away, well before sundown.
This first day was our most challenging, as the wind blew directly towards us for most of the day. At times, we were blown completely off course: even though our paddle was supposed to be diagonal across the big lake, our actual path resembled that of a rubber duck thrown around a bathtub. We decided to stick closer to the shorelines of islands, using them as a natural windbreak for moments of respite.
Keeping close to shorelines did make navigation more difficult. Cutover Island is so big that we mistook it for the shore of the lake. This disorientation had us looking at our maps and scratching our heads for quite some time. With the help of a cell phone signal and GPS, we realized our mistake and were able to continue towards our destination. Carrying a paper map and knowing how to use a compass is important for navigation, but I’d also recommend bringing along some sort of GPS tool and mapping app to use as a backup if you’re not practiced at using these skills on the water. See our recommendations for The Best Satellite Transmitters and Personal Locator Beacons for devices that also include built-in GPS mapping tools.
After a few hours of paddling, we pulled ashore on a small island to take a break. Such islands are plentiful on Lake Kabetogama, and if you can land the canoe, you’re welcome to spend some time there. We ate lunch, spent a few hours reading, and saw an owl poking its head out of a tree. Once the wind died down a bit, we continued on towards our backcountry campsite.
In the late afternoon, we arrived at our campsite island and set up camp, having covered five miles in five hours. The island couldn’t have been larger than fifty square yards, but we had fun exploring and still had plenty of time to cook a basic camp dinner before catching a beautiful sunset. We marveled at the quiet and the sharpness of the stars in the absence of noise and light pollution before heading to sleep.
The next morning, we packed up and backtracked a bit behind Cutover Island to see the incredibly unique Ellsworth Rock Gardens. Called the “Showplace of Lake Kabetogama,” the gardens consist of 62 flower beds and over 200 abstract rock sculptures, all built over the course of 20 years by Jack Ellsworth, a carpenter from Chicago. It’s a popular day-use destination and a good place to put in for a meal, as benches are plentiful. We spent an hour or so walking around the gardens.
Nearby Cutover Island was our destination for the night. There, we found not only set campsites, but also bear boxes, a picnic table, and a latrine toilet (also known as a hole in the ground). Since we’d only paddled three miles, after setting up camp we had much of the afternoon ahead of us. For the rest of the afternoon, we read, napped, and explored the island. Cutover is about a mile long, and we didn’t get the chance to explore it in its entirety, but we did set up a hammock to relax in the trees (hammock camping is legal in Voyageurs). For the sunset, we hiked to the western side of the island.
As our last day on the lake dawned, we packed up and began paddling back to the Arrowhead Lodge. On our way, we saw multiple bald eagles. We made much better time without the wind, making the three miles in just three hours, and arriving at the lodge in midmorning. It’s definitely worth noting that we saw less than half of the lake, so it’s possible to plan longer trips according to your needs.
Maps and Guidebooks
Maps
We picked up a paper map from Arrowhead Lodge, where we rented our canoe. In most seasons, including early summer, this can be done at Kabetogama Lake Visitor Center. Voyageurs National Park operates five visitor centers and the Rainy Lake Visitor Center operates year-round.
Gaia
The mobile app Gaia GPS is one of our favorite apps for adventurers of all types. Gaia provides a variety of topographic and recreational maps, and once you download the maps you need, they’re usable whether or not your phone has a signal. Be sure to preload the base maps for the offline version in Gaia before you leave home.
As phones can fail or get wet, be sure to have paper back-ups and a waterproof phone case.
getting there
There are several ways to get to Voyageurs. Start by flying into Minneapolis-St Paul airport or the small regional Duluth airport.
From Minneapolis-St.Paul
The park is a five-hour drive north of Minneapolis-St. Paul, which is home to the nearest large airport. You'll enter the Park from the south, about equidistant between Kabetogama Lake Visitor Center on the eastern part of the lake and the Ash River Visitor Center to the west.
From Duluth
Duluth, a three-hour drive to Voyageurs, also has an international airport, though prices may be higher.
Regardless, you’ll need to rent a car, though you won’t need 4WD to access Lake Kabetogama or any of the other put-ins in the park.
You'll enter the Park from the south, about equidistant between Kabetogama Lake Visitor Center and the Ash River Visitor Center.
By car from Canada
You can access the Rainy Lake part of the park from Canada at the Fort Frances/International Falls border crossing. From Rainy Lake Visitor Center, it's a 45-minute drive to the southeast to the Lake Kabetogama Visitor Center or an hour to the Ash River Visitor Center.
Rules and regulations
Campfires are not allowed in Voyageurs National Park.
Follow Leave No Trace Ethics, including camping and pooping far from water. While some sites may have latrine toilets or outhouses, this is the exception rather than the rule. You might also want to carry a few WAG bags in case you’re in the canoe and emergency strikes.
Don’t urinate directly into the lake — while you may have heard “the solution to pollution is dilution”, that applies solely to moving water of a certain flow rate. Urine raises the pH of lakes, making them more acidic and changing the delicate watershed ecosystem.
Follow boat safety regulations, including wearing a life jacket or personal flotation device. See our Best Personal Flotation Devices guide or Best Personal Flotation Devices for Kids guide for our recommendations.
If you happen to encounter wild critters, give them space! There are bears in Voyageurs National Park, so it’s important to follow bear safety procedures. See more on that below.
Carry a printed and signed version of your camping permit on your person at all times.
Water Planning
Water planning is easy for canoe and kayaking trips—you’re surrounded by the stuff!-but you’ll still need to decide on a purification system. We used a Sawyer Mini, though others might prefer something a little more hands-free, like the Platypus GravityWorks 4L. Check out our guide on Water Filters and Purifiers for more ideas on how to filter.
bears and food storage
Black bears are a part of the ecosystem at Voyageurs National Park. As such, you’re required to store food, garbage, and smellables like sunscreen and lip balm in a bear-proof container. While several campsites have bear-proof lockers or boxes, not all do, so make sure to bring or rent a bear canister as a part of your gear kit. For other bear canister recommendations, REI’s got you covered.
Should you encounter a black bear, the National Park Service has several recommendations. If you spot the bear first, attempt to avoid it. Remain calm. Look around for cubs, and avoid coming between cubs and their mother. If you cannot avoid an encounter, make yourself as big as possible, and make as much noise as possible to attempt to scare the bear away. Never turn your back on a bear, as it may start to chase you. While this may sound intimidating, most bear encounters end without incident, and storing your smellables properly will help keep both you and the bears safe.
gear rentals
While there are many outfitters in the region, we rented our canoe and personal flotation devices (PFDs, also known as life jackets) from the Arrowhead Lodge. We could “put in” our canoes directly from here, so it made getting on and off the water easy. The staff at Arrowhead was extremely kind and helpful and offered us maps and recommendations on how best to travel on the water. The rental equipment was reasonably priced and in great condition.
Some backcountry campsites have picnic tables, bear boxes, fire rings, and privies. Photo by Michael Degan.
Gear List
| GEAR | PRODUCT |
|---|---|
| Sleeping bag | Marmot Trestles Elite Eco 20F (men's) Marmot Trestles Elite Eco 20F (women's) |
| Sleeping pad | Therm-a-Rest BaseCamp Sleeping Pad |
| Stove | Jetboil Flash Cooking System |
| Food storage | Sea to Summit Ultra-Sil Dry Bag Bear Canister |
| Headlamp | Black Diamond Cosmo 350 |
| Waterproof phone case | Waterproof Phone Case |
| Water filter | Sawyer Mini Water Filter Platypus GravityWorks Water Filter System |
| Potty trowel | TheTentLab Deuce #2 UL Backcountry Trowel |
| Sandals | Chaco Z/Cloud |
| Mapping app | GAIA GPS app |
CANOE OR KAYAK AND BOAT ACCESSORIES
Many people will choose to rent their boats, oars, and other accessories. However, if you are interested in doing a lot of canoe trips or kayak trips, it may be worth investing in. See our guide Should You Buy A Folding Oru Kayak? You can also check out our Best Inflatable Kayaks guide and our Best Packrafts guide. As fun as they are, we don’t recommend an Inflatable Stand Up Paddle Board (SUP) for this trip.
LIFE JACKET OR PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICE
Life jackets or personal flotation devices (PFDs) will come with boat rental. But if you foresee a lot of canoe or kayak trips in your future, it’s worth investing in one that fits better and is more comfortable than rentals.
See our Best Personal Flotation Devices and Best Kids Personal Life Jackets and Flotation Devices guide for basic boat safety information and where to learn more about boat safety.
TENT
We used a now discontinued MSR tent for this trip. We loved its combination of low weight and durability. Check out our Best Camping Tents or Best Backpacking Tents story for recommendations for tents.
SLEEPING BAG
We used the Marmot Trestles Mummy on this canoe trip. They're both lightweight and comfortable. For more information, see our Best Backpacking Sleeping Bags story or Best Camping Sleeping Bags guide. If you’re canoeing, you can get away with a bulkier (but less expensive) camping sleeping bag. If you’re in a kayak, you may opt for a more compact backpacking sleeping bag.
SLEEPING PAD
We both used the Therm-a-Rest BaseCamp sleeping pad on this trip. It's thick, affordable, comfortable, and keeps you warm. As with sleeping bags, if your boat has room for a roomier and more plush sleeping mattress, go for a camping mattress. If you’re on a smaller bot, see our Best Backpacking Sleeping Pads story.
COOKING SYSTEM
We used the Jetboil flash cooking system on this trek. It’s a winner in our Best Backpacking Stoves guide.
WATER PURIFIER
We used the Sawyer Mini as our main purification method on this trip. It's lightweight, small, and easy to maneuver. For more information, see our Best Backpacking Filters story.
FOOD STORAGE
For this trip, we brought a Sea to Summit Dry Bag for keeping snacks dry during the day. Not only was it a good storage bag, but it also is a dry bag to keep our oatmeal from turning mushy.
BEAR FOOD PROTECTION
Regulations require you to use food storage lockers. If you don’t camp in areas with food storage lockers, you will need to bring your own bear canister.
gear accessories
Don’t forget your map and compass, first aid kit, sun protection including sunglasses, and a pocket knife.
FISHING ACCESSORIES (OPTIONAL)
If you intend to do any fishing, don't forget your equipment. See our Best Beginner Fly Fishing Combo guide for recommendations. Also, don’t forget other accessories like fly fishing indicators. See our Best Fly Fishing Accessories Checklist for a complete list.
What to Wear
Here’s a gear checklist for what to where in Voyageurs National Park. To see other clothing recommendations and some of the science and reasoning behind layering, see our What should I wear in Yosemite National Park?
SHOES OR hiking BOOTS
We wore the Chacos Z on the canoe. These have long-time been considered a standard for boating because of their sturdiness and grip. They’re also a winner in our Best Hiking Sandals guide. They’re also favorites in our Best Wet Wading Shoes guide for fly fishing.
If you’d feel more comfortable in boots, especially for the hiking trail portions of the trip, check out our Best Hiking Boots story or our Best Lightweight Hiking Boots story.
Prefer something lightweight but closed-toe? See our breathable and quick-drying recommendations in our Best Women’s Trail Runners and Best Men’s Trail Runners guide. Looking for more durability and stability? See our Best Hiking Shoes guide.
HEADLAMP
We carried the predecessor of the Black Diamond Cosmo, which is affordable, bright, and lightweight. See our Best Headlamps guide for recommendations.
WHAT CLOTHES TO BRING
These are the clothes you may not wear all day-but you’ll want them for nighttime or if the weather turns bad. Read about our favorite things to wear outdoors on our Outdoor Apparel page.
RAIN JACKET
A rain jacket is an affordable, multi-use alternative to a paddle jacket since it’s effective in camp and on the water. See our Best Rain Jackets guide for more suggestions on rain jackets we recommend. See our Best Rain Pants guide for bottoms.
puffy JACKET
Bring a layer for staying warm at camp time. See our Best Synthetic Jackets article for our recommendations.
A PAIR OF SHORTS
Bring something quick drying and consider a second pair to wear around camp! See our Best Women’s Running Shorts or Best Men’s Trail Running Shorts guide. Although designed for running, these kinds of shorts are usually the best at drying quickly while still having essential features like pockets. If you want the lightest weight pair of shorts possible, see our Best Thru-hiking Shorts guide. For something more durable or with more modesty, see our Best Men’s Hiking Shorts article.
QUICK-DRY T-SHIRTS
Make sure you have two shirts to choose from, especially if one is still wet from the day before. See our Best Base Layers guide for recommendations. Opt for synthetic as they tend to dry much faster than wool. If you want something short sleeve, consider a running shirt. As with running shorts, they tend to be designed to dry quickly. See our Best Men’s Running Shirts and Best Women’s Running Shirts guide for more recommendations.
WARM HAT
For use in camp.
SUN HAT AND SUN PROTECTION
A sunhat, sunglasses, and sunscreen are something you don’t want to forget. There’s no shade on the water once you’re well away from shore. See our guide to Best Running Sunglasses for pairs we like that stay on your head during physical activity. Our Best Sunscreen for your Body and Best Face Sunscreen guides have recommendations for non-greasy, non-oily sunscreens we like enough to actually use.
